Backpacking Loop Around Michigan's Beaver Island

August 13-15, 2016

Distance: 50+ miles (counting detour to a couple inland lakes)

Circumnavigating Beaver Island is potentially one of the best backpacking loops in Michigan. Per Wikipedia, Beaver Island is the largest island in Lake Michigan, lying approximately 32 miles from the city of Charlevoix on the mainland, and can only be reached by air or boat. It is 13 miles long and 3 to 6 miles wide.

While the island doesn't feel quite as remote as the Manitou Islands in Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, it is inhabited by less than 1000 people.  Much of the population is near St. James at the north end of the island.  Much of the remainder of the island is state forest land. Camping is allowed in state forest land with a permit from the MI DNR. 

I wasn't quite sure what to expect backpacking on Beaver Island, but my goal was to stay as close to the beach as possible (legal on all shoreline). Overall, it was a fantastic experience.  At times staying close to the beach resulted in wading in the lake or walking through deep mud so this loop probably isn't for everyone.

 Getting a ride from one of the friendly locals is very easy so an entire loop of the island isn't necessary if you would prefer a shorter adventure. There is also a good trail system on the southern end of the island, many of which I didn't explore.

Transportation was easy with the Beaver Island Boat Company as reservations were not required.  There are also options to fly to island.

I purchased a map right across from the ferry dock after arriving at the island. You could also purchase one prior to leaving.  See here. The map has everything you need to know including forest areas (where camping is allowed).  Please respect private property.  The map isn't durable and was in pieces by the time my hike was complete.

Here is a map of my route. Lines were just traced on map. GPS was not not used for tracking.  Consider this map a very general guide. I hiked clockwise from St. James.  

The adventure started with a boat ride from Charlevoix.

Charlevoix South Pier Light

It was a cloudy morning with a light rain.

The boat follows along Beaver Island to St. James.

Arriving at St. James, Harbor Light

St. James

After arriving, I went across the street and purchased the island map.

From there I followed roads heading south out of town.

The island has an interesting history, including a Mormon kingdom.

There was a scenic park on the edge of town.

I could tell Lake Michigan's water level was high as the volleyball net was in the lake.

I started walking on The King's Highway.

A few cars stopped to ask if I wanted a ride.

I turned left onto East Side Drive near a cemetery.

I started making my way to Luney's Point on Grant's Road.

The road disappeared and I found an old two track through the woods.

Maybe this was a small trail.

I reached the Lake Michigan and turned south.

The beach was overgrown and not sandy so I probably did some wading through the lake.

I reached the Little Sand Bay Nature Preserve.

I followed the trail back out to the road.

There was a golf course across the road.

I followed the road to Pebble Beach Road, hoping I could find access back to the beach.

At the end of the road there was just a picnic table.

I continued south along the beach.

More wading!

There was a nice pond beside the lake.

I walked through a bunch of mud.

Then the beach was covered in shells.

I could see the ferry coming across the lake.

Keep in mind that much of the beach hiking is near houses.

There was a great stretch of hiking on Sand Bay. If I stayed close to the water, the hiking surface was firm.

I reached the dock at Bill Wagner Campground.

It's a very nice campground. This campsite had a great view of the lake.

There was a water pump nearby and I refilled my water bottle.

I continued south around Point LaPar. There was a sailboat in the distance.

I climbed up for a view at Martin's Bluff.

I continued along Pete McCauley's and Cable's Bays.

There was a stretch walking through a very muddy area where I met a guy out in his back yard.  He was surprised to see me walking through the lake. I told him I was walking around the island and didn't want to trespass on anyone's property. He was quite interested in the hike.

I reached the old light keeper's residence.

Up the hill, I found the Beaver Head Light.

The tower was open and I climbed to the top.

Beaver Head Light

I continued around Iron Ore and Little Iron Ore Bays to Cheyenne Point.

I could see out to the Fox Islands in the distance.

There were some nice evening reflections.

I saw a deer way out in the lake.

Eagle

I reached a point on the southwest end of the island and set up camp.

There was a beautiful sunset.

It was a restful night.

Looking back from my campsite

I continued hiking around the island.

If continued hiking to French Bay.

I passed a fire ring at French Bay.

I continued hiking north.

Welsh's Rock

I decided to go explore some of the inland trails.  I found my way off the beach to Greene's Bay Drive.

Then I continued to Greene's Bay Road.

Then I joined Greene's Lake Road.

Greene's Lake

I continued south.

I think this may be Doty's Camp Site.

Some of the trails were confusing, but I did find a trail sign.

I decided to go to Lake Geneserath.

I did a bushwhack from the narrow bridge by Buffalo's Camp Trail to the lake.

Lake Geneserath

I started hiking back to the beach.  This time I took the North Lake Trail.

I came out to West Side Road and followed it to Young James' Trail.

The road turned into a two track and then disappeared in the forest. I bushwhacked my way to Mrs. Redding's Trail.

From there I was able to find an access point to the lake near Griener's Bay.

I continued north, planning to set up camp at McCauley's Point.

There were some significantly muddy stretches.

The mud in this spot was up to my knees.

I walked all the way out on a rocky point for a nice view.

There was some pleasant beach hiking as well.

High Island

I reached McCauley's Point.

There were some nice dunes on the point.

The point is really just a small section of state land surrounded by houses.

I didn't see anyone else around though

I found a secluded spot on top of a forested dune and set up camp.

There was a nice sunset from up on the dune

I could hear music from a nearby house, as I went to sleep.

I woke up pretty early the next morning as I wanted make sure I had time to get the first boat.

I could see the sunrise over the island.

As I started to go around the northern end of the island, the walking was more challenging with lots of wading and wet walking.

I could see over to Garden Island.

There was a cross at Bishop Baraga's Landing.

There was a long stretch of wading.

I decided I was tired of walking in the water and climbed up to the St. James Campground.

From the campground I followed the Donegal Bay Trail back to St. James.

I thought that it was funny that the trail was paved but the road wasn't.

St. James

I decided to go around Harbor Drive to see the Harbor Light.

Part of the road was flooded.

Harbor Light

As I walked back through St. James, a car pulled up beside me.  It was the same man that I had met in his backyard on the first day.  He was excited to hear about the hike and I told him that he should try it sometime.  At the dock I waited a little before boarding the ferry.

It was a pleasant ride back to Charlevoix.

Overall, I really enjoyed the hike on Beaver Island. While it isn't currently one of Michigan's popular backpacking destinations, it does have great potential.  Hiking around the island certainly isn't for everyone, but is rewarding if willing to walk in water and mud.  There are also many stretches of pristine beaches and some of the most eagles I have seen. The scenery and fairly remote hiking make it a worthwhile endeavor.  The friendliness of the locals, culture, and history of the island are an additional benefit.  The island's size provides one of the best long distance backpacking loops in Michigan.