Backpacking Illinois River Trail

May 22-24, 2020

The Illinois River Trail is about a 30 mile trail in the Rogue-Siskyou National Forest. It mainly follows the Illinois River but also climbs up thousands of feet to Bald Mountain. There are several large bridged stream crossings. Much of this area has burned recently, but the trail has been re-opened in its entirety. A car shuttle is over 90 miles and apparently on high clearance roads so I simply decided to hike the trail both directions.

After staying home as directed by the governor due to COVID precautions, I saw online that the Illinois River Trail was open and decided to take advantage of Memorial Day weekend. Last year, I was able to hike the Rogue River Trail and really enjoyed it, so I was hoping the Illinois River Trail would also be excellent and while different, it did not disappoint.

I was able to download a gpx track from hikingproject.com. I also found this trip report to be helpful. The mileage list on the Oregonhikers field guide was great for planning campsites. This is one of the Siskiyou Mountain Club's Signature Routes.

I began late Friday afternoon from the western trailhead. There were several other cars parked at the trailhead.

In a short distance I heard a rattlesnake in hiding beside the trail. I carefully made my way around.

There were many flowers along the trail.

The trail started out in the forest.

I could glimpse Oak Flat and the Illinois River through the trees.

 I reached the edge of a fire burned area.

So many flowers!

Soon I enjoyed a great view of the Illinois River and Oak Flat down below.

It was a fairly gradual climb to Buzzard's Roost.

Buzzard's Roost

I dropped my pack and scrambled up Buzzard's Roost.

It was a pretty easy scramble and the rock was solid. There was one spot that had a large drop off, but good foot holds.

From the top there was a good view of the Illinois River.

Looking back to Oak Flat and the Rogue River

In this spot, the Illinois River is narrow and straight.

As I started the descent from Buzzard's Roost, there was a shadow and some evening light.

I could see the bridge over Indigo Creek down below.

I planned to camp at Indian Flat but went to the bridge over the creek first.

Indigo Creek

I backtracked to Indian flat and found many flowers but also ticks in the high grass.

I went down by the cree and found a nice view of the bridge.

I tried to find a campsite away from the ticks and found a spot just above the creek.

The next morning I awoke to a pleasant day.

Indian Flat

Indigo Creek

The trail climbed up the opposite side of the creek and there was a nice view of Indian Flat.

Many flowers!

I climbed up a hill off-trail and found a view of the Illinois River below.

I went to explore Fantz Ranch and there was a tent at the campsite nearby.

Fantz Ranch

I really enjoyed the section of trail between Fantz Ranch and Silver Creek.

There were awesome views of the Illinois River.

The trail is visible below the cliffs.

There were others camped at Connor's Place on the edge of the Kalmiopsis Wilderness.

The color of the river was so green.

I startled a snake near Silver Creek.

Before the bridge over Silver Creek, I went down to the Illinois River. This is one of the few access points to the Illinois River along the entire trail.

Silver Creek enters Illinois River

Bridge over Silver Creek

There was a great campsite near Silver Creek with a view of the river, but I had much farther to go.

After Silver Creek, the trail began a climb up Bald Mountain and I hadn't studied it at the time but my guidebook says it's 3200 feet in 4 miles. Just before the switchbacks, I lost the trail briefly but was able to find it using my gps track.

I reached a burned ridge, but the trail kept going up.

This section of trail had seen little travel this year and was overgrown, but the trail was still easy for me to follow.

I went through some meadows.

There was some really nice trail in the forest.

I went past an historic artifact.

Somewhere in the forest, I startled a bear and it was running from me before I even saw it. I passed a few hikers heading the opposite direction.

I climbed up what my Gaia map said was Bald Mountain, but it wasn't. It actually had a better view. I could see snowy peaks on the horizon.

The Illinois River was just barely visible thousands of feet down below.

A sign was on the ground for the trail to Bald Mountain's summit.

Bald Mountain summit

As I descended there was a great view and many flowers.

For a short distance the trail paralleled a forest road.

I passed a family heading the opposite way. I looked back to see a rocky peak.

After crossing several forks of Pine Creek, I could see Pine Flat down below, where I planned to camp. I helped redirect a few others who had missed the trail down to Pine Flat.

It was a steep descent to Pine Flat. I passed some nice campsite in the forest near Pine Creek, but there were mosquitoes and I wanted to get closer to the river with an open view. Near the river it was quite rocky.

While looking for a campsite I found some nice views of the river. There were several others camped around Pine Flat.

I found a campsite in some tall grass.

There were some great evening views of the river.

I walked over to some impressive rapids.

There was a shallow pool with a reflection.

In the evening I prepared my running vest as I planned to run the five miles (10 miles roundtrip) to the eastern trailhead. I had considered leaving camp set-up at Pine Flat, but decided to pack everything up and hide my pack beside the trail instead of having to do the steep climb from Pine Flat twice.

I hid my pack up a small hill near the junction with the trail to Pine Flat.

This was one of the best sections of the trail to run. The trail was clear and in great shape.

As I had an early start, I avoided most of the heat through the unshaded burned area.

There was a dramatic view of the river below.

It was a gradual descent to the eastern trailhead.

There was a good bridge over Briggs Creek.

I reached the eastern end of the trail. There were more cars at the trailhead than I expected.

Soon I started running back.

I reached my backpack. With the run, I had been able to finish 10 miles quickly. I hoped to make it 15 miles back to Silver Creek as the water sources on Bald Mountain are limited and that would allow me to have a short final day.

Pine Flat

Near the forest road, the trees had Wilderness boundary signs on them.

I began the steepest portion of the climb up Bald Mountain from the east.

I could see the forest road and the Illinois River below.

The clouds were interesting.

I could probably see Mount Ashland in the distance, but I'm not sure which peak it is.

I entered the forest and looked up at the trees.

For some reason, I didn't stop at Little Bald Prairie my first time, but this time I went to check it out. It has one of the best views up by Bald Mountain.

I started the many switchbacks down to Silver Creek.

I had more trouble losing the trail at the bottom of the switchbacks than when going eastbound. I found a trail sign and a couple other guys happened to be there who said they couldn't find the trail. I slowly bushwhacked my way until I found the trail near Silver Creek. Another camper was already at the main campsite, so I went down to the creek and cooled off in the water.

Illinois River

I found a nice place to camp by the river east of Silver Creek. It was a tedious scramble down to the river, but the views were worth it.

I cooked up some good risotto.

Silver Creek

Silver Creek enters Illinois River

Campsite above Illinois River near Silver Creek

I got an early start to my last day on the trail. I had about 10 miles left to go.

There were nice morning views as I hiked along one of my favorite sections of the trail.

I went past an area where there had lots of trail work.

The sun rose over a ridge.

I could see Fantz Ranch through the trees.

A snail tried to hide in the leaves.

Indian Flat

Indigo Creek

It was warming up as I did the biggest climb of the day to Buzzards Roost.

I could see Fantz Ranch down below.

I scrambled up Buzzard's Roost a second time.

Soon I was back at the western trailhead.

This was an excellent adventure. The Illinois River Trail felt wilder than the Rogue River Trail as it didn't pass as many lodges. Surprisingly I saw more people on the trail, but that could just depend on the time of year. Going in late May, I was able to see lots of wildflowers, but it did get up in the 80s during the day. This trail offers more than a stunning river, but also distant mountain views. Water availability was good, but sources on Bald Mountain may dry up in the summer. I also found many ticks especially at Indian Flat. This was my first time going for a trail run in the middle of an extended backpacking trip and I really enjoyed it. Overall, the trail was in great shape. Many thanks to everyone who maintains the trail: the National Forest, Siskiyou Mountain Club and others that I'm not aware of.